Detailed  Directions 

for 

Laying  and  Caring 
for  Linoleum 


A  COMPLETE  HANDBOOK 
FOR  LINOLEUM  LAYERS 


Armstrong  Cork  Company 

Linoleum  Department 
Lancaster,  Pa.,  U.  S.  A. 


Extra  Copies  Free  on  Request 

The  proper  laying  of  linoleum  is  the 
most  serious  problem  in  the  whole  in¬ 
dustry  'today.  Every  floor  covering 
merchant,  who  wishes  to  increase  his 
linoleum  sales,  is  therefore  vitally  in¬ 
terested  in  this  book. 

Read  it.  Study  it.  Follow  the  sug¬ 
gestions  it  offers  and  you  will  find  that 
your  linoleum  business  will  steadily 
increase. 

Extra  copies  of  this  book  supplied  any 
merchant  free  on  request.  Put  a  copy 
in  the  hands  of  each  of  your  linoleum 
layers. 


Copyright  1918 

By  Armstrong  Cork  Company 
Linoleum  Department 
Lancaster,  Pa. 


How  to  Lay  and  Care  for  Linoleum 

Every  floor  covering  merchant  should  realize  the  im¬ 
portance  of  seeing  that  each  piece  of  linoleum  that  goes  out 
of  his  store  is  laid  in  such  manner  as  to  give  lasting  satisfaction 
to  the  buyer.  For  success  in  the  linoleum  business  depends 
very  largely  on  that  one  thing.  Now  that  your  customers  are 
being  educated  by  the  Armstrong  national  advertising  to  the 
advantages  of  linoleum  as  a  floor  for  many  rooms  beside  the 
kitchen  and  bath,  the  matter  of  proper  laying  is  doubly  im¬ 
portant.  One  good  linoleum  floor,  well  laid,  will  lead  to  many 
additional  orders. 

The  methods  outlined  in  this  handbook  are  based  on  the 
practical  experience  of  experts  who  make  linoleum  laying  a 
profession.  Any  careful  workman  can  put  linoleum  down  to 
stay,  if  he  will  follow  the  directions  here  given,  step  by  step. 

The  Ideal  Method  of  Laying  Linoleum 

There  is  only  one  ideal  way  to  lay  linoleum  over  concrete 
or  wood,  and  that  is  to  paste  it  down  over  a  layer  of  heavy 
felt  paper  and  seal  the  joints  with  waterproof  cement.  This 
adds  to  the  cost,  but  the  use  of  the  felt  layer  positively  in¬ 
creases  the  life  of  the  linoleum  and  insures  a  permanent,  satis¬ 
factory  floor.  When  the  many  advantages  of  this  method 
are  explained  to  customers,  few  will  be  unwilling  to  pay  the 
extra  expense.  In  fact,  the  cost  in  the  long  run  is  less  than 
where  makeshift  work  is  done,  since  the  possibility  of  having 
to  tear  up  and  replace  the  linoleum  because  of  bulging  or 
cracking,  due  to  faulty  laying,  is  eliminated. 

Sell  Linoleum  as  a  Floor:  In  quoting  prices  to  a  customer, 
base  the  quotation  on  what  the  entire  floor  will  cost,  expense 
of  laying  included.  Add  enough  to  the  cost  of  the  goods  to 
cover  a  reasonable  charge  for  the  work.  It  is  not  difficult  to 
show  the  customer  that  it  will  pay  to  have  the  laying  done  by 
your  skilled  workmen.  Induce  the  customer  to  buy  a  grade 


1 


of  linoleum  suitable  for  the  purpose,  and  have  it  properly  laid. 
Such  procedure  will  make  real  friends  for  you  in  the  long  run. 

Advantages  of  the  Felt  Under  Layer:  The  advantages  of 
using  a  layer  of  felt  are  many.  They  include: 

1  _  On  wood  floors,  the  work  of  laying  can  be  com¬ 
pleted  in  a  single  trip.  Ordinarily  the  floor  can  be  used  at 
once — while  the  work  is  in  progress,  if  necessary.  On 
concrete  floors,  the  felt  is  laid  one  day,  and  the  linoleum 
the  next. 

2.  The  felt  layer  acts  as  a  cushion,  and  makes  the 
floor  delightful  to  walk  upon.  Its  use  positively  increases 
the  life  of  the  linoleum. 

3.  The  felt  layer  deadens  sound.  It  makes  the 
floor  much  warmer  in  winter. 

4.  When  properly  pasted  to  the  felt,  the  linoleum 
cannot  bulge,  expand  or  contract.  Re  trimming  is  un¬ 
necessary. 

5.  All  floors — particularly  wood — are  subject  to 
expansion  and  contraction,  due  to  heat  and  cold.  The 
felt  takes  up  this  expansion  or  contraction,  and  prevents 
cracking  or  breaking  which  is  apt  to  occur  when  linoleum 
is  cemented  to  wood. 

6.  The  linoleum  can  be  removed  without  damage 
and  with  little  difficulty,  if  occasion  should  arise. 

Directions  for  Laying  Linoleum  Over  Felt 

Materials  Required:  In  addition  to  the  linoleum  selected 
by  the  customer,  the  following  materials  are  needed: 

1.  Enough  building  felt  to  cover  the  entire  floor 
area.  This  is  the  ordinary  gray,  unsaturated  felt  used 
by  builders,  commonly  known  as  deadening  felt.  It 
comes  in  3-foot  widths.  It  is  made  by  a  number  of  manu¬ 
facturers,  and  can  be  secured  through  your  local  lumber 


2 


Fig.  1 — Materials  Required  for  Laying  Linoleum  Over  Felt 

This  illustration  shows  all  the  materials  and  tools  necessary  for  putting  linoleum 
down  over  a  layer  of  felt  paper.  Enough  building  felt  is  needed  to  cover  floor.  Arm¬ 
strong’s  Linoleum  Paste  is  used  for  pasting  the  felt  to  the  floor,  and  the  center  of  the 
linoleum  strips  to  the  felt.  Nonpareil  Linoleum  Waterproof  Cement  is  used  along  all 
edges  and  seams.  Besides  proper  brushes,  the  only  tools  needed  are  a  linoleum  knife  and 
an  iron  roller.  Face  bricks  or  sand  bags  are  used  to  weight  seams  and  edges. 


yard  or  hardware  dealer.  The  grade  you  should  use 
weighs  1  Yl  pounds  to  the  square  yard. 

2.  Armstrong’s  Linoleum  Paste  for  pasting  the  felt 
to  the  floor,  and  the  center  of  the  linoleum  strips  to  the 
felt.  One  gallon  of  paste  will  cover  about  100  square 
feet  of  space.  Order  approximately  enough  to  cover  twice 
the  area  of  the  floor  space. 

3.  Nonpareil  Waterproof  Linoleum  Cement  for  all 
seams,  edges,  and  openings.  In  general,  one  gallon  of 
Nonpareil  Waterproof  Cement  has  a  spreading  capacity 
of  sixty  to  eighty  square  feet,  depending  on  the  roughness 
of  the  surface  to  be  covered.  For  seams  and  edges  only, 
one  gallon  will  suffice  for  fifty  to  sixty  square  yards  of 
goods. 

4.  A  special  iron  roller,  weighing  about  1.50  pounds, 
for  rolling  the  felt  and  the  linoleum,  is  ordinarily  employed 
by  contract  layers.  A  hollow  cylinder  roller,  like  those 


3 


used  for  lawns,  may  he  employed.  The  proper  use  of  a 
roller  makes  largely  for  success  in  linoleum  laying. 

5.  A  linoleum  knife  for  cutting  seams  and  around 
edges. 

6.  A  standard  4-ineh  paint  brush  for  applying  the 
linoleum  cement.  A  calcimine  brush  for  applying  the 
linoleum  paste. 

7.  Face  bricks,  sand  bags,  or  other  satisfactory 
weights  for  weighting  seams  and  edges. 

High  Grade  Cement  Must  Be  Used:  Nonpareil  Water¬ 
proof  Linoleum  Cement  is  specifically  recommended  for  ce¬ 
menting  linoleum.  It  is  highly  dangerous  to  use  a  cement  of 
unknown  quality.  There  are  some  such  on  the  market  which 
have  silicate  of  soda  or  water-glass  as  their  base.  This  sub¬ 
stance  is  the  opposite  of  water-repellent;  it  is  water- attract¬ 
ing.  Its  ingredients,  under  certain  conditions,  undergo 
chemical  changes,  and  become  highly  destructive. 

Steps  in  Laying  Linoleum  Over  Felt 

Handling  Rolls  of  Linoleum:  In  cold  weather,  linoleum 
becomes  brittle,  and  if  unrolled  when  cold,  is  apt  to  crack. 
Before  laying  linoleum  in  the  winter  months,  therefore,  it 
should  be  kept  in  a  warm  room  for  at  least  48  hours  before 
it  is  unrolled.  Be  sure  to  cut  the  string  and  loosen  the  roll, 
when  the  goods  are  delivered. 

Cutting  the  Felt  and  Linoleum:  A  careful  linoleum  layer 
will  take  precise  measurements  of  the  floor  to  be  covered,  and 
work  out  a  definite  plan  for  cutting  the  goods.  Much  material 
can  thus  be  saved.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  cut  either  the 
felt  or  the  linoleum  too  scant  at  any  point.  Patching  takes 
time,  and  is  unsightly. 

It  is  usually  best  first  to  cut  the  felt  to  fit  the  short  way 
of  the  room.  It  should  be  carefully  measured  so  the  edges 


4 


will  fit  flush  with  the  base  board.  The  quarter-round  floor 
moulding  should  always  be  removed  before  laying  the  felt. 

In  similar  manner,  the  lengths  of  linoleum  should  be  cut 
to  fit  the  long  way  of  the  room,  or  across  the  lengths  of  build¬ 
ing  felt.  It  is  well  to  cut  both  the  felt  and  the  linoleum  a  little 
long  and  trim  to  fit. 

Condition  of  Wood  Floors:  Whether  the  felt  layer  is  used 
or  not,  all  wood  floors  should  be  dry  and  well-seasoned  before 
the  linoleum  is  laid.  The  surface  should  be  smooth  and  even, 
and  free  from  all  dirt  or  foreign  matter.  All  cracks  should  be 
filled,  and  if  knots  or  nails  protrude  they  must  be  smoothed 
down.  This  preliminary  preparation  of  the  floor  is  very 
important. 

When  moisture  cannot  escape,  mildew  or  mold  will  set 
in.  This  explains  why  it  is  so  essential  to  have  the  floor 
thoroughly  dry. 

Condition  of  Concrete  Floors:  New  concrete  floors  can¬ 
not  be  considered  absolutely  dry  in  much  less  than  three  or 
four  months  after  construction,  depending  on  season,  weather 
and  other  conditions.  Moisture  in  the  floor  will  neutralize 
the  effects  of  any  cement,  and  the  action  of  mold  or  mildew 
will  set  in  wherever  moisture  has  no  opportunity  to  evaporate. 
It  is  essential,  therefore,  that  the  linoleum  be  not  laid  until 
the  concrete  has  had  time  to  season  and  dry  thoroughly. 

Not  only  must  the  concrete  floor  be  thoroughly  clean, 
and  free  from  all  foreign  matter  and  dirt,  but  any  cracks 
should  be  filled  with  plaster  of  Paris,  especially  the  expansion 
(V)  cracks;  otherwise,  these  cracks  in  time  may  show  on  the 
linoleum  surface. 

Caution  is  recommended  when  laying  linoleum  over 
concrete  in  basements.  No  matter  how  well  built,  they  are 
likely  to  be  damp.  Before  linoleum  is  laid  in  any  basement, 
the  floor  must  be  thoroughly  waterproofed.  Ask  for  further 
information  before  undertaking  to  do  work  of  this  kind. 


a 


Laying  the  Felt:  The  preparations  for  laying  the  felt  are 
much  like  those  for  hanging  wall  paper.  Place  the  first  width 
of  felt  closely  along  the  side  of  the  wall  and  trim  the'ends  to 
fit  snugly.  Then  turn  one  end  of  the  loose  felt  back  about 
half  way  and  apply  Armstrong’s  Linoleum  Paste  (non- 
waterproof)  evenly  with  a  calcimine  brush  to  the  back  of  the 
felt.  Enough  paste  should  be  used  to  insure  firm  adhesion  of 
the  felt  to  the  floor.  When  i-eady,  replace  the  paste-covered 
half  in  position  on  the  floor.  As  this  is  done,  the  felt  can  be 
pressed  out  with  the  hands  or  feet.  All  air  blisters  must  be 
completely  smoothed  out. 

Next  the  other  half  of  the  width  of  felt,  in  like  manner,  is 
turned  back  and  given  its  coating  of  paste,  and  then  put  into 
position  on  the  floor.  The  ends  must  not  be  cut  too  short; 
they  should  butt  up  tight  against  the  wall  or  baseboard.  The 
roller  is  then  used  to  smooth  out  the  felt,  and  insure  its  firm 
adhesion  to  the  floor. 

The  other  widths  of  felt  are  treated  in  exactly  the  same 
way  as  the  first.  Butt  the  edges  carefully;  be  sure  the  felt 
does  not  lap,  as  this  would  make  a  ridge  under  the  linoleum. 
The  seams  must  fit  closely.  The  felt  should  be  cut  to  fit 
neatly  around  built-in  furniture,  radiator  feet,  pipes,  and  the 
door  jambs  and  sill.  Careful  workmanship  is  essential. 

If  possible,  let  the  felt  dry  for  several  hours  before  pro¬ 
ceeding  with  the  rest  of  the  job.  But  in  the  case  of  wood 
floors,  if  time  is  limited,  or  only  one  room  is  to  be  done,  the 
linoleum  can  be  laid  over  the  felt  at  once,  before  the  paste  is 
entirely  dry.  On  concrete  floors  the  felt  should  be  allowed  to 
dry  for  12  hours  before  the  linoleum  is  laid. 

Fitting  the  Linoleum:  The  widths  of  linoleum,  cut  to 
measure  as  previously  described,  can  best  be  handled  in  the 
room  in  rolled-up  form,  ready  for  use. 

The  first  width  of  linoleum  is  fitted  into  position  against 
the  wall.  Press  the  edges  firmly  against  the  baseboard  or 


6 


In  applying  linoleum  paste  to  the 
surface  of  the  felt,  a  margin  four 
inches  wide  should  be  left  bare  along 
the  edges,  seams  and  ends. 


rr . ; 

^4.  inch  margin 


left  bare  for 


Waterproof 


Cement 


Armstrong's 

Linoleum 

Paste 


Fig.  2 — Method  of  Applying  Paste  and  Cement  to  Felt  Paper 


Armstrong’s  Linoleum  Paste  is  applied  to  the  surface  of  the  felt,  not  to  the  back  of  the 
linoleum.  A  space  four  inches  wide  is  left  bar$  at  each  side  and  end  of  the  strip.  The 
linoleum  is  then  put  in  place  and  rolled.  Later,  when  the  paste  has  set,  the  edges  of  the 
linoleum  are  lifted,  and  Nonpareil  Linoleum  Waterproof  Cement  applied  to  the  felt  as 
far  back  as  the  paste  will  permit. 


wall,  and,  using  a  linoleum  knife,  cut  to  fit  neatly.  By  care¬ 
ful  work,  a  very  tight  joint  against  the  wall,  or  other  surface, 
can  be  secured.  In  fitting  linoleum  around  pipes,  it  should 
be  cut  neatly  from  the  edge  of  the  piece  along  a  straight  line, 
and  just  enough  material  should  be  removed  to  make  the 
linoleum  fit  snugly  around  the  pipe.  A  good  layer  is  known 
by  the  way  he  fits  his  linoleum  to  the  walls  and  around  per¬ 
manent  projections  in  the  floor. 


7 


Applying  the  Paste:  When  ready  finally  to  lay  the 
linoleum,  draw  a  chalk  mark  along  the  edges  of  the  piece 
to  indicate  on  the  felt  where  the  linoleum  seams  will  come. 
This  will  serve  as  a  guide  in  applying  the  paste.  One  end  of 
the  width  of  goods  is  then  rolled  back  a  little  more  than 
half  way. 


Fig.  3 — Applying  the  Paste  to  the  Felt 

Every  square  inch  of  the  felt  surface,  except  a  four  inch  margin  along  the  edges,  seams 
and  ends  of  the  linoleum  strips,  is  thoroughly  covered  with  Armstrong’s  Linoleum  Paste. 
The  chalk  mark  serves  as  a  guide  to  the  workman. 


The  workman  then  assumes  a  position  in  front  of  the  roll 
of  linoleum  as  shown  in  Figures  2  and  3,  and  applies  the  paste 
evenly  on  the  felt,  not  the  linoleum,  to  within  4  to  6  inches  of 
each  side  and  each  end,  as  indicated  by  the  chalk  marks. 
This  4  to  6-inch  space  is  left  bare  for  the  later  application  of 
Nonpareil  Waterproof  Linoleum  Cement.  Wherever  the 
linoleum  has  to  be  cut  and  fitted  around  pipes,  projections, 
etc.,  a  similar  uncoated  space  is  left. 

When  the  top  surface  of  the  felt  has  thus  beer,  properly 
coated  with  paste,  the  linoleum  is  unrolled  into  position,  and 
pressed  firmly  in  place  with  the  hands  or  feet,  using  a  small 
piece  of  cloth  to  protect  the  linoleum.  The  other  end  of  the 
linoleum  is  next  rolled  back,  and  the  felt  on  that  side  is  sim- 


s 


ilarly  coated  with  paste.  The  linoleum  is  carefully  rolled, 
and  all  air  blisters  completely  smoothed  out.  Along  the  ends, 
the  linoleum  will  ride  or  extend  up  slightly,  and  must  be  cut 
to  fit  snugly  into  place.  , 

If  plain,  jaspe  or  granite  linoleum  or  cork  carpet  is  being 
laid,  put  down  the  next  width  of  goods  so  that  its  edge  will  lap 
the  piece  already  down,  along  the  seam.  This  overlap  may 
extend  from  ]/i  to  %  of  an  inch.  In  laying  inlaids  or  prints, 
however,  the  edges  should  be  butted  tightly  against  each 
other  (not  lapped)  so  as  not  to  spoil  the  matching  of  the  pat¬ 
tern. 

In  turn  each  length  of  linoleum  is  pasted  to  the  felt- 
covered  floor.  In  each  case,  the  edges  and  seams  are  free,  and 
can  lie  lifted  to  receive  the  necessary  coating  of  Waterproof 
Cement. 

As  in  the  case  of  the  felt,  it  is  advisable  to  allow  the 
paste  under  the  linoleum  to  dry.  If  several  rooms  are  being 
done,  the  workmen  can  proceed  to  the  next  room.  On  a 
small  job,  however,  it  is  safe  to  finish  the  operation  after  two 
or  three  hours.  '• 

Fitting  the  Seams:  If  plains,  jaspes  or  cork  carpet  have 
been  laid  in  accordance  with  the  directions  given  on  this  page 
the  linoleum  strips  will  overlap  from  3^  inch  to  %  inch,  or 
even  more  at  the  seams.  Here  is  where  the  fine  art  of  the 
linoleum  cutter  comes  in.  Practice  makes  perfect  as  in  any 
other  kind  of  work. 

Figure  4  shows  a  workman  cutting  the  seams.  He  takes 
the  cutting  knife  in  his  right  hand  and  guides  the  blade  with 
his  left  hand.  Beginning  at  one  ?nd,  he  cuts  through  with  one 
stroke  both  the  top  layer  of  linoleum,  and  the  layer  beneath, 
which  it  overlaps.  The  knife  is  held  perfectly  perpendicular 
to  insure  a  straight  up  and  down  cut.  As  may  be  seen  in  the 
picture  on  page  10,  two  strips  of  linoleum  are  cut  off,  and  a 
perfect  joint  between  the  edges  of  the  two  pieces  of  linoleum 
must  result.  A  good  cutter  will  trust  his  eye  to  help  him 


9 


make  straight  cut.  For  the  inexperienced,  a  chalk  line  may 
he  used  as  a  guide.  Seams  fitted  in  this  way  are  well-nigh 
invisible.  Remember  this  method  of  fitting  seams  cannot  be 
used  on  patterned  linoleum. 


Cementing  the  Seams:  A  high  grade  waterproof  cement 
should  be  used  for  cementing  the  seams.  This  is  necessary  to 
prevent  moisture  getting  under  the  linoleum.  Especially 


Fig.  4 — Fitting  the  Seams 

Both  over-lapping  seams  are  cut  through  at  the  same  time.  A  perfect  joint  results. 
Seams  fitted  in  this  way  are  well-nigh  invisible. 


under  sinks  and  radiators,  or  around  pipes,  is  the  use  of  water¬ 
proof  cement  essential.  Nonpareil  Waterproof  Linoleum 
Cement  is  guaranteed  for  this  purpose. 

The  edges  of  the  linoleum  should  be  lifted  up  as  shown  in 
Figure  5,  and  the  brush  pushed  under,  until  a  good  thick 
coating  of  waterproof  cement  is  obtained  for  4  to  (5  inches  back 
(as  far  back  as  the  paste)  on  both  sides  of  the  seam,  and  around 


10 


all  the  edges.  This  work  cannot  be  done  too  well.  The 
cement  is  applied  only  to  the  felt.  If  any  cement  should  get 
on  the  surface  of  the  linoleum,  remove  it  at  once,  with  alcohol. 

Rolling  the  Linoleum:  As  soon  as  the  seams  and  edges  are 
cemented,  the  roller  should  be  used  to  press  the  linoleum  into 
place.  The  roller  should  be  run  over  the  entire  seam  re¬ 
peatedly,  until  all  is  even  and  perfectly  smooth.  If  one  of  the 
edges  at  the  seams  should  still  stick  up  slightly  above  the 
other,  a  light  hammer  should  be  used  to  tap  the  edge  gently 
into  place.  After  rolling  the  joints,  they  will  become  prac¬ 
tically  invisible,  and  will  be  watertight.  See  Figure  6. 

Weighting  the  Seams  and  Edges:  To  hold  the  freshly- 
cemented  seams  and  edges  firmly  in  position  to  dry,  it  is 


1'Tq,  5 — Applying  Nonpareil  Linoleum  Waterproof  Cement  to  the  Felt 

After  the  paste  has  set,  the  edges  of  the  linoleum  are  lifted,  and  waterproof  cement  is 
applied  to  the  felt  as  far  back  as  the  paste  will  permit.  This  insures  watertight  joints. 


11 


necessary  to  weight  them 
down.  Good,  clean,  heavy 
face  bricks  (or  sand  bags)  are 
generally  available  and  can  be 
used  for  this  purpose,  as  shown 
in  Figure  7.  Along  walls  and 
in  corners  place  the  bricks 
carefully  so  as  to  force  the 
linoleum  down  at  these  im¬ 
portant  points.  An  exper¬ 
ienced  layer  can  tell  by  the 
sound  of  the  brick  against  the 
linoleum  when  perfect  adhesion 
has  been  secured.  The  weights 
should  be  kept  in  position  for 


Fig.  (3 — Rolling  the  Linoleum 

The  use  of  the  roller  secures  good  adhesion,  and  makes  the  seams  practically  invisible. 


at  least  twenty-four  hours,  by  which  time  the  cement  will 
have  set  firmly.  If  necessary,  the  floor  can  be  used  even 
while  the  work  is  being  done. 

Some  layers  put  paper  under  the  bricks  to  prevent 
scratching  the  surface  of  the  linoleum.  When  the  cement  has 


12 


Fig.  7 — Weighting  Seams  and  Edges 

To  hold  the  seams  and  edges  firmly  in  position  for  the  cement  to  dry,  face  bricks 
are  used  to  weight  them  down.  Sand  bags  may  be  used,  instead  of  bricks. 


dried  sufficiently,  remove  the  weights,  and  replace  the  quarter- 
round  moulding  in  position,  taking  care  to  do  this  work 
neatly. 

A  Permanent  Floor:  Linoleum  installed  over  felt  paper 
in  the  manner  described,  is  waterproof  and  cannot  buckle  or 
"creep.”  It  is  practically  a  permanent  floor,  and  will  last 
longer  than  linoleum  laid  in  any  other  fashion.  Because  of 
the  increased  satisfaction  such  a  floor  gives,  i  f  will  be  decidedly 
to  your  advantage,  in  the  long  run,  to  convince  your  customers 
of  the  desirability  of  having  you  lay  their  linoleum  for  them, 
following  this  method. 

Laying  Linoleum  Without  Felt  Under  Layer 

As  stated  before,  the  laying  of  linoleum  directly  upon  the 
floor,  without  a  felt  layer,  is  not  recommended.  There  are 


13 


occasions,  however,  when  linoleum  is  purchased  to  meet  a  less 
permanent  need,  as  in  apartment  houses,  stores  and  offices, 
where  tenants  have  short  leases,  in  which  cases,  customers  may 
he  unwilling  to  pay  the  extra  cost  that  the  use  of  felt  involves. 
Careful  workmanship  then  becomes  all  the  more  essential,  as 
poor  laying  will  inevitably  cause  trouble,  and  necessitate  doing 
the  work  over. 

Directly  on  Wood  Floors — Without  Felt 

As  explained  on  page  5,  the  wood  should  be  dry  and  well- 
seasoned,  the  surface  smooth  and  even.  In  time,  linoleum 
will  conform  to  all  the  inequalities  of  the  floor,  and  breaking 
is  apt  to  occur  if  it  is  uneven.  Make  sure  the  floor  is  per¬ 
fectly  dry. 

Cutting  the  Linoleum:  Remember  the  caution  about 
handling  linoleum  in  cold  weather.  Unroll  it  only  after  it 
has  been  kept  in  a  warm  room  for  forty-eight  hours.  See 
page  4. 

Take  precise  measurements  of  the  floor  and  be  careful  not 
to  cut  the  linoleum  too  scant  at  any  point.  If  possible,  the 
length  of  the  linoleum  should  run  crosswise  to  the  direction 
of  the  boards,  as  it  will  thus  take  up  any  slight  inequalities  to 
better  advantage.  However,  always  endeavor  to  cut  the 
linoleum  to  the  best  advantage. 

Letting  Linoleum  “Grow”:  After  linoleum  has  been 
rolled  tightly  for  several  weeks  or  months,  it  is  bound  to 
expand  or  “grow”  for  some  time  after  it  is  laid  flat.  Where 
there  is  heavy  traffic,  and  the  floor  is  much  used,  it  may  take 
only  a  week  or  so  for  the  linoleum  to  stretch.  In  most 
residences,  however,  it  takes  from  two  to  four  weeks  to  over¬ 
come  the  “growing”  tendency. 

Therefore,  in  laying  linoleum  over  a  wood  floor,  allow 
for  expansion.  The  following  method  is  recommended  to 
take  care  of  this  expansion  tendency  and  insure  a  floor  that 
will  be  reasonably  free  from  the  troubles,  that  are  sometimes 
met  with  when  linoleum  is  laid  directly  on  wood. 


14 


Remove  Floor  Moulding:  First,  remove  the  quarter  round 
floor  moulding  around  the  baseboard.  Cut  the  linoleum 
scant  at  each  end  just  so  the  edge  will  be  covered  by  the 
quarter  round  moulding  when  this  is  replaced.  Along  each 
side  wall  the  linoleum  is  not  placed  tight  against  the  base¬ 
board,  but  just  as  at  the  ends,  a  space  of  j/g  to  Y  inch  is  left. 
The  edges  of  the  linoleum  along  all  seams  are  butted  against 
each  other. 

When  laid  in  this  manner, 
the  linoleum  will  have  oppor¬ 
tunity  to  expand  under  the 
edge  of  the  quarter  round 
moulding.  When  the  quarter 
round  moulding  is  replaced,  it 
must  not  be  nailed  to  the  sur¬ 
face  of  the  linoleum,  but  to  the 
baseboard  only.  It  must  not 
bind  the  linoleum  at  any  point. 

The  linoleum  should  be 
given  plenty  of  time  to  expand. 
Should  a  buckle  or  air-bubble 
develop,  it  should  be  smoothed 
or  rolled  out,  and  if  necessary, 
the  end  or  edge  of  the  linoleum 
under  the  quarter-round  mould¬ 
ing  cut  back  a  trifle. 

Many  linoleum  layers  make 
the  mistake  of  bradding  linoleum  in  one  or  two  places  during 
the  expansion  period.  This  should  never  be  done.  Linoleum 
cannot  expand  properly  if  even  one  or  two  brads  are  used. 

If  possible,  heavy  furniture  should  be  kept  off  the  floor 
during  this  time,  as  it  prevents  expansion.  If  such  furniture 
must  be  used  in  the  room,  move  it  from  one  part  of  the  room 
to  another  every  few  days.  Give  every  foot  of  the  linoleum 
a  chance  to  expand. 


Fig.  8 — Laying  Linoleum  on  Wood 
Floors,  Without  Felt 

In  laying  linoleum  on  a  wood  floor, 
to  allow  room  for  expansion,  a  space  Y 
to  Y  inch  wide  is  left  between  the  base¬ 
board  and  the  edge  of  the  linoleum, 
as  shown  at  A.  The  quarter  round 
moulding  is  nailed  to  the  baseboard, 
tsee  B),  and  does  not  press  tightly 
against  the  surface  of  the  linoleum. 


15 


In  many  cases  no  further  fastening  will  be  necessary. 
The  quarter-round  moulding  will  be  all  that  is  required  to  hold 
the  linoleum  in  place.  This  is  especially  true  in  private 
houses.  If  not  necessary,  do  not  brad  the  linoleum. 

Fitting  Around  Pipes  and  Projections:  The  linoleum 
layer  who  does  not  fit  the  fabric  neatly  around  radiators, 
waste  pipes,  etc.,  is  not  a  good  workman.  Wherever  pos¬ 
sible,  insist  that  gas  stoves,  kitchen  ranges,  or  any  other 
movable  equipment  be  disconnected  so  the  linoleum  can  be 
laid  underneath. 

Fastening  the  Linoleum.  Where  it  is  necessary  to  fasten 
the  linoleum  to  wood  floors,  use  No.  18,  %-ineh  wire  brads. 
I)o  not  use  carpet  tacks.  The  brads  should  be  set  in  \ g  inch 
to  }  j  inch  from  the  edge  oi  seam,  and  should  be  spaced  about 
4  inches  apart  around  the  edges,  and  3  inches  apart  on  seams. 
The  brad  should  be  driven  down  until  its  head  is  lost  in  the 
surface  of  the  linoleum. 


Directly  on  Concrete  Floors — Without  Felt 

The  advantage  of  using  a  felt  layer  over  any  floor,  in¬ 
cluding  concrete,  have  been  stated  on  page  2.  It  acts  as  a 
cushion  between  the  linoleum  and  the  hard  base.  If,  how¬ 
ever,  the  customer  decides  against  the  use  of  the  felt  layer,  the 
linoleum  may  be  pasted  directly  to  the  floor. 

Floor  Must  Be  Dry:  Read  the  caution  about  laying 
linoleum  over  concrete  floors,  on  page  5.  It  is  essential  that 
linoleum  be  not  laid  until  the  concrete  has  had  time  to  season 
and  dry  thoroughly. 

Applying  the  Paste:  In  laying  linoleum  directly  over 
concrete,  Armstrong’s  Linoleum  Paste  should  be  used  for  the 
center  of  the  strips,  and  Nonpareil  Waterproof  Cement  for  the 
seams  and  edges.  Remove  all  foreign  matter  and  dirt,  and 
put  the  first  linoleum  strip  in  position.  A  chalk  mark  drawn 


16 


on  the  floor  along  the  edges  of  the  linoleum  will  serve  as  a 
guide  in  applying  the  paste.  Roll  back  half  the  length  of  the 
goods  and  apply  a  thick  coating  of  the  paste  to  the  concrete 
floor,  to  within  4  to  6  inches  of  each  edge  and  seam.  Replace 
the  first  half  of  the  linoleum,  and  repeat  the  operation  with 
the  other  half.  Then  roll  the  surface  of  the  linoleum  thor¬ 
oughly  with  the  150  pound  iron  roller,  and  smooth  out  all  air 
blisters  carefully. 

In  laying  the  succeeding  widths  of  linoleum,  remember 
that  the  edges  of  inlaid  and  printed  goods  must  be  butted 
tightly  against  each  other.  On  plain  goods,  jaspes,  granites 
and  cork  carpets,  however,  the  edges  may  be  overlapped  J/g 
to  }  2  inch,  and  the  seams  made  perfectly  tight  by  cutting 
in  the  manner  described  on  pages  9  and  10. 

Cementing  Edges  and  Seams:  After  the  centers  of  all  the 
strips  have  been  pasted  to  the  floor,  the  linoleum  should  be 
carefully  fitted  along  all  edges  and  seams.  Finally  the  edges 
of  each  strip  should  be  lifted  and  Nonpareil  Linoleum  Water¬ 
proof  Cement  applied  to  the  concrete  underneath,  as  far  back 
as  the  paste  will  permit.  (See  Figure  5  on  page  11.)  Weights 
such  as  pressed  bricks  or  sand  bags  should  then  be  placed 
along  the  freshly-cemented  edges  and  seams,  and  allowed  to 
remain  for  twenty-four  hours. 


How  to  Care  for  Linoleum 

When  given  reasonable  care  and  treatment,  linoleum 
floors  will  last  for  years,  and  retain  their  attractive  appear¬ 
ance  indefinitely.  They  are  easier  to  keep  clean  than  hard¬ 
wood  and  require  less  attention. 

Cleaning  Linoleum:  As  it  does  not  catch  dirt  readily, 
the  daily  sweeping  of  linoleum  is  a  very  easy  task.  Sweeping 
should  be  followed  each  day  by  the  use  of  an  oil  mop.  Under 
most  conditions,  this  will  be  all  the  cleaning  required. 


17 


A.  mild  soap — one  free  from  alkali — with  tepid  water  is 
the  only  cleaning  agent  that  should  ever  be  employed.  The 
water  should  not  be  hot,  and  the  linoleum  should  be  rinsed 
with  clear  water  and  dried  thoroughly  immediately  after  it  is 
washed.  It  is  best  to  wash  and  dry  about  one  square  yard  at 
a  time.  When  a  mop  is  used,  the  surface  should  never  be 
“flooded”  with  water. 

Avoid  Caustic  Soaps:  Contrary  to  the  idea  held  by  a 
good  many  housewives,  certain  well-advertised  cleaning  soaps 
and  washing  powders  are  not  good  to  use  on  linoleum.  In 
fact,  some  of  them  are  positively  detrimental,  as  they  contain 
alkalies.  The  chemical  action  of  strong  caustic  or  alkali 
destroys  the  linseed  oil  and  cork  in  linoleum,  just  as  it  does 
varnish  on  hardwood.  This  action  will  not  be  apparent  until 
a  cleansing  agent  of  this  kind  has  been  used  for  some  time. 
In  printed  linoleums,  the  caustic  or  alkali  will  attack  the 
painted  surface  much  more  quickly  than  the  surface  of  inlaid 
or  plain  goods. 

The  best  rule  is  to  caution  your  trade  to  avoid  the  use 
of  all  soda,  lye,  potash,  cleaning  powders,  and  strong  scouring 
soaps.  A  good  brush  and  a  little  “  elbow  grease,  ”  with  mild 
soap  and  warm  water,  will  clean  linoleum  thoroughly. 

Polishing  Linoleum:  Linoleum  will  last  longer,  and  the 
brightness  of  the  colors  be  retained  and  renewed,  if  the  surface 
is  gone  over  occasionally  with  a  good  polish  or  floor  wax, 
thoroughly  rubbed  in.  In  Europe,  where  housewives  take 
great  pride  in  their  floors,  polishing  their  linoleum  is  an  im¬ 
portant  part  of  the  routine  housework.  Under  such  treat¬ 
ment,  the  floors  always  look  new,  and  last  for  many  years. 

There  are  a  number  of  good  floor  preparations  on  the 
market,  such  as  “Johnson’s  Prepared  Wax,”  “Old  English 
Wax,”  “Liquid  Veneer,”  or  “O-Cedar  Polish,”  which  will 
give  excellent  results.  A  home-made  polish  that  is  quite 
satisfactory  is  easily  prepared  by  dissolving  under  slow  heat, 
equal  parts  by  weight  of  beeswax  and  turpentine.  Care 


18 


must  be  taken  to  avoir!  setting  this  mixture  on  fire  in  pre¬ 
paring  it.  Whatever  the  polish,  use  it  sparingly  and  rub  it 
in  thoroughly. 

Waxing  Machine:  For  large  offices  and  business  build¬ 
ings,  an  electric  floor  waxing  machine  has  been  devised  which 
materially  reduces  the  labor  and  cost  of  keeping  linoleum 
floors  clean  and  polished.  A  good  floor  wax  is  applied  once 
or  twice  a  month,  depending  on  the  amount  of  traffic.  Each 
night  the  workman  goes  over  the  floor  with  the  electric 
machine,  which  removes  foot  marks  and  puts  the  floor  back 
in  its  original  polished  condition.  Full  information  about 
this  machine  will  be  sent  upon  request. 

Heavy  Furniture  on  Linoleum:  The  castors  ordinarily 
used  are  apt  to  cut  into  linoleum  if  the  furniture  is  heavy. 
Therefore,  it  is  best  to  use  glass  or  metal  shoes.  These 
sliding  shoes  have  a  wide  bearing  surface,  and  no  rough 
edges.  They  are  made  in  several  sizes,  have  a  similar  shank 
to  that  on  a  regular  castor,  and  will  fit  the  same  sockets.  On 
chairs,  rubber  tips  will  answer  the  same  purpose.  Always  lay 
a  piece  of  carpet  on  the  floor,  or  a  board,  when  moving  very 
heavy  furniture,  to  prevent  marring  the  surface  of  linoleum. 

Storing  Linoleum:  Linoleum  in  stock  should  always  be 
kept  in  a  warm,  dry,  room.  Remember  that  linoleum  is  a 
fabric  and  is  susceptible  to  damage  from  moisture,  steam  or 
excessive  heat.  Keep  it  away  from  leaky  steam  radiators  or 
pipes.  Do  not  store  it  in  damp  cellars.  It  is  better  to  store 
linoleum  rolls  on  end,  if  possible. 

Free  Booklet  for  Your  Customers 

To  help  the  merchant  educate  his  customers  to  the 
advantages  of  having  linoleum  laid  properly,  a  simple  booklet, 
3j/£x6  inches  in  size,  has  been  prepared  for  the  merchant  to 
distribute  to  his  trade.  This  booklet,  entitled,  “ How  to 
Lay  and  Care  for  Linoleum in  addition  to  a  brief  description 


19 


of  the  method  of  laying  linoleum  over  a  layer  of  felt  paper, 
emphasizes  the  importance  of  having  the  merchant’s  ex¬ 
perienced  linoleum  layers  do  the  work.  It  also  contains  facts 
about  the  care  of  linoleum  that  every  housewife  should  know. 

These  booklets  will  be  supplied  free,  upon  request,  in 
lots  of  200,  with  the  merchant’s  name  imprinted  on  them. 
Additional  lots  will  be  sent  postpaid  for  fifty  cents  per  hun¬ 
dred  copies,  including  imprinting.  In  ordering,  please  state 
how  you  desire  your  firm  name  imprinted  on  the  cover. 


Armstrong’s  Linoleum 

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For  Every  Room 


in  the  House 


Prepared  by  Armstrong  Cork  Company,  Publicity  Department,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 
Photographs  by  courtesy  of  Conradson  and  Hill,  New  York 


Other  Armstrong  Publications 

The  following  publications  have  been  prepared  to  help  the 
linoleum  merchant  and  his  salesmen  increase  their  linoleum 
business.  Any  of  these  books  will  be  sent  free  upon  request. 

Building  Linoleum  Business  :  A  9x12  inch  book,  con¬ 
taining  full  information  about  the  entire  series  of  free  Armstrong 
Linoleum  Selling  Helps — window  displays,  newspaper  cuts, 
lantern  slides,  cut-outs,  etc. 

Helpful  Hints  for  Linoleum  Salesman :  A  new  book 
for  the  man  on  the  floor. 

Beautiful  Floors  for  Your  Home:  A  six  page  33^x6 
inch  folder,  for  distribution  to  retail  customers.  Sent  free  in 
lots  of  200,  with  merchant’s  name  imprinted  on  the  cover.  Extra 
copies  75c  per  100,  including  imprinting. 

How  to  Lay  and  Care  for  Linoleum :  A  sixteen  page 
3}/£x6  inch  booklet,  for  distribution  by  merchants  to  retail  cus¬ 
tomers.  Sent  free  in  lots  of  200.  Extra  copies  50c  per  100, 
including  imprinting. 

Pocket  Size  Pattern  Book:  Presents  color  plates  of 
the  entire  Armstrong  Line  of  380  patterns. 

Pocket  Size  Quality  Sample  Book :  Contains  quality 
samples  of  fifteen  of  the  most  important  grades  of  Armstrong’s 
Linoleum,  including  plain  and  jaspe  linoleum,  cork  carpet, 
and  inlaid  and  printed  goods. 

Both  of  the  latter  are  convenient  aids  for  soliciting  linoleum 
business,  both  inside  and  outside  the  store. 


The  Art  of  Home  Furnishing  and  Decoration,  by  Frank 
Alvah  Parsons:  An  interesting  treatise  by  America’s  fore¬ 
most  authority  on  interior  decoration,  indicating  bow  linoleum 
can  be  used  successfully  in  every  room  in  the  house.  With  it, 
is  included  a  series  of  eight  beautiful  interiors  in  color,  de¬ 
signed  by  Mr.  Parsons,  showing  various  rooms  with  linoleum 
floors.  Sent  for  20  cents  in  stamps. 


